Today at about 5 p.m., we pulled into Kyle, South Dakota, after driving through the amazing Badlands National Park. We wanted to go to the Lakota Cultural Center (or whatever it's called), but it was closed. In the same parking lot, however, was La India Bonita, where Angie, the owner, exclaimed, "Where have you guys been? We've been waiting all day for you!" We enjoyed a very inexpensive "indian taco" (open-faced, on frybread) and watched as most of the small town's residents came in and out of the cafe. We struck up a conversation with Angie, who kicked into networking mode (truly, she seems always to be in that particular mode--she knows everything about everybody) when she learned that we were looking for a place to stay. "Oh, you need to stay at UPO . Let's call Lamoine!" She sent us down a dirt road and at the big UPO sign, we turned down the lane into a beautiful 80-acre farm, with horses, dogs, cats, and a very friendly bed-and...